1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to the field of skin care, and the apparent retardation of skin aging. The present invention also relates to the field of hair treatment and particularly to the removal of chemically bound residues and mineral deposits from hair. Hair may act as a sink for environmental minerals and heavy metals. In addition to undesirable changes in color and appearance, environmental minerals may have an adverse effect on chemical hair treatments. Mineral deposits in tap water may strip away highlights, darkening hair color to a brassier hue.
2. Description of the Art Practices
U.S. Pat. No. 5,041,285 issued to Lundmark on Aug. 20, 1991 describes a composition containing allantoin, panthenol, and a monohydric alcohol. The Lundmark patent describes a substantially homogeneous product obtained by: dispersing panthenol in a monohydric alcohol at a temperature above the melting point of the panthenol to obtain a liquid melt; and dispersing allantoin in the liquid melt at a temperature above the point at which the liquid melt is in the liquid phase. The product described in the Lundmark patent is for the treatment of keratinous substrates, including the treatment of hair.
The phenomenon of blonde hair acquiring a green tint when exposed to swimming pool water containing copper has been attributed to copper mineral absorption by hair. Such absorption occurs when copper is in the form of a weak complex of copper salts. Subsequent shampooing with a conventional composition cannot strip the green color. (Reference: G. Ramachandra Bhat, et. al., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 30, 1-8 (January/February 1979).
Previous attempts to develop compositions for the removal of minerals from human hair have utilized high concentrations of known chelating agents, extended contact times and processes which require the application of heat. In addition, special packaging may be required to prevent decomposition in the presence of air. For example, Ault in U.S. Pat. No. 5,804,172 issued Sep. 8, 1998 discloses a composition for use in removal of minerals from hair which comprises the combination of an acidifying agent, a reducing agent, a chelating agent, a gelling agent and water. A synergistic combination of chelating agents is stated to be disclosed in the Ault patent. Also disclosed in the Ault patent is a process for packaging the compositions and a method for removal of mineral residues from hair by the use of such compositions. The method disclosed in the Ault patent for the removal of mineral residues from hair may take up to 45 minutes for the removal of iron from hair. It is also stated in the Ault patent that the process requires the application of heat and an airtight container to prevent oxidation that would negate the usefulness of the invention.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,635,167 to Said, et al., issued Jun. 3, 1997 discloses a process for the removal of exogenous metal ions attached to human hair or keratin fiber which include the steps of contacting at least one chelating agent to the human hair or keratin fiber, the chelating agent selected from the group consisting of amino acid-type, polyphosphate-type and phosphonate-type agents, maintaining contact with the chelating agent and the human hair or keratin fiber for a period of time sufficient to permit the chelating agent to complex with the exogenous minerals, thereby removing at least a portion of the attached minerals, and rinsing the chelating agent.
The process of the Said, et al., patent is enhanced with the pH adjusted to a range of between 4 to 9, preferably 5 to 8. The chelating agent of the Said, et al., patent is added at a concentration of 4% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight. In a preferred case, the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of a salt of ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid, a salt of hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid, a salt of diethylenetriamine-pentaacetic acid, a salt of nitrilotriacetic acid and a salt of tripolyphosphate, preferably the sodium salt. The Said, et al., patent teaches high concentrations of polyphosphate or phosphonate which may be irritating to the scalp of certain sensitive individuals and may limit the utility of the proposed invention for use in low irritation shampoo compositions.
Gary, et al., in U.S. Pat. No. 3,998,761 issued Dec. 21, 1976 discloses a shampoo composition suitable for conditioning hair. The compositions of the Gary, et al., patent comprise at least one detergent and a waste liquid beer sludge concentrate distributed in an aqueous medium. The beer solids are stated to be, in the Gary, et al., patent composition at from about 4% to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the shampoo composition and wherein said detergent comprises about 10 to 20% based on the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the Gary, et al., patent may contain minor amounts of proteins.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,948,416 issued to Wagner, et al., on Sep. 7, 1999 relates to leave on, skin care compositions, comprising: (A) from about 0.001% to about 20% of an active ingredient, (B) from about 1% to about 20% of a stable, hydrophobic, structuring agent selected from the group consisting of saturated C16 to C30 fatty alcohols, saturated C16 to C30 fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated C16 to C30 diols, saturated C16 to C30 monoglycerol ethers, saturated C16 to C30 hydroxy fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, having a melting point of at least about 45 degree C.; and (C) from about 0.05% to about 10% of a hydrophilic surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and (D) from about 25% to about 98.949% water. These compositions of the Wagner, et al., patent are stated to be useful for delivering a wide variety of active ingredients to the skin.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,581,229 issued to Petrow on Apr. 8, 1986 discloses a hair treating solution and method which is stated to provide for improving hair quality and aiding in removal of inorganic substances from hair. The Petrow patent states that metals such as copper, iron, manganese, nickel and the like, if attached to hair after swimming or other hair-exposure thereto, can be removed by the use of a soluble lanthanum salt in a simple rinsing method.
The coloring of hair to a desired shade and having the hair retain the desired shade is quite important to consumers as set out in U.S. Pat. No. 5,112,359 Murphy, et al., issued May 12, 1992. The Murphy, et al., patent discloses certain dispersant free substituted diaminoanthraquinone colorants stated to be useful in hair dye compositions to more intensely color hair. The Murphy, et al., patent states that coloring kits, mousses, gels, and aerosols may contain the compositions disclosed therein.
Cationic polymers are used in shampoos and conditioners to facilitate combability and to make the hair feel softer and smoother to the touch. Cationic surfactants are positively charged molecules that have an affinity for negatively charged sites on the hair. When used repeatedly, an excess of cationic polymer may buildup on the hair shaft, resulting in dull, lifeless hair. Compositions for the removal of minerals from human hair do not address the problem of cationic polymeric buildup on the hair shaft.
The immersion of the skin in carbon dioxide enriched water has been shown to increase blood flow and oxygen delivery to the skin, Hartmann et. al., Angiology, vol. 48, pp. 337-43 (1997).
U.S. Pat. No. 4,412,026 issued to Collins Oct. 25, 1983 discusses polymeric compositions. The Collins patent in particular, describes the homopolymeric salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid in an amount sufficient to thicken the compositions disclosed therein.
Throughout the specification and claims, percentages and ratios are by weight, and temperatures are in degrees Celsius, unless otherwise indicated. To the extent that any of the references cited herein are applicable, they are hereby specifically incorporated by reference. Ranges and ratios given herein may be combined.
The present invention describes a composition suitable for conditioning a keratinous substrate comprising:
(a) panthenol;
(b) citric acid;
(c) water; and,
(d) a water-soluble source of bicarbonate.
A further aspect of the present invention is a composition that is a two part composition suitable for conditioning a keratinous substrate comprising:
(a) a first mixture comprising water and citric acid; and,
(b) a second mixture comprising panthenol and, a water-soluble source of bicarbonate.
A further aspect of the present invention is a composition suitable for conditioning a keratinous substrate comprising:
(a) panthenol;
(b) citric acid;
(c) water;
(d) a water-soluble source of bicarbonate; and,
(e) a member selected from the group consisting of a water-insoluble linear alcohol and a fatty acid ester and mixtures thereof.
Further disclosed herein is a composition suitable for conditioning a keratinous substrate comprising:
(a) panthenol;
(b) citric acid;
(c) water;
(d) a water-soluble source of bicarbonate; and,
(e) a quaternary compound.
Yet a further aspect of the present invention is a two part composition suitable for conditioning a keratinous substrate comprising:
(a) a first mixture comprising water and a source of a homopolymeric salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid; and,
(b) a second mixture comprising panthenol and, a water-soluble source of bicarbonate.
Yet a further aspect of the present invention is a method for treating a keratinous substrate such as skin or hair with the foregoing compositions.
For the purposes of promoting an understanding of the principles of the invention, reference will now be made to the preferred embodiment. No limitation of the scope of the invention is thereby intended for further applications of the principles of the invention, which would normally occur, or be contemplated by one skilled in the art, to which the invention relates.
The first aspect of the invention, in part, relates to stable, skin care or hair care compositions containing a source of carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide is conveniently entrained in a gel network xe2x80x9cliquid crystallinexe2x80x9d phase, immediately prior to use upon the skin or hair. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the aqueous phase of these compositions contain both free water and associated water which is believed to be bound as part of a gel network or liquid crystalline phase. A substantial portion of the carbon dioxide will be lost from the product upon application to the skin or hair. However, a sufficient amount of carbon dioxide may remain in the product to stimulate the skin and help promote oxygen flow to the outer layers of the skin. In hair care products, the carbon dioxide also functions to facilitate the penetration of active substances into the hair shaft. These compositions are useful for delivering a wide variety of functional ingredients to the skin and hair.
When sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is dissolved in water and combined with an acidic solution (e.g. citric acid), a xe2x80x9cneutralizationxe2x80x9d reaction occurs which liberates carbon dioxide gas. In aqueous solution, sodium bicarbonate is transformed into sodium carbonate and carbon dioxide. Sodium carbonate is also decomposed by acids with effervescence. The products of the present invention permit the incorporation of carbon dioxide into a xe2x80x9csemi-stablexe2x80x9d liquid crystal or gel network emulsion phase for subsequent delivery to skin or hair after application to a keratinous substrate.
Emulsions are multi-phase dispersions which are typically oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple phase (W/O/W) or (O/W/O). The introduction of a gaseous phase into an emulsion vehicle adds another degree of complexity, with gas bubbles coalescing and dissipating out of the multi-phase dispersion with time.
The emulsions of the present invention are multi-phase dispersions consisting of carbon dioxide gas, an oil phase and a water phase. The emulsions of the present invention may be formed by combining an alkaline sodium bicarbonate emulsion with an acidic vehicle, followed by mixing and subsequent gas phase effervescence.
Skin cells utilize oxygen to facilitate the production of extracellular matrix substances which is essential for maintaining healthy looking skin. As humans age, oxygen levels in the skin tend to decrease. Increased blood flow to the skin tends to increase skin oxygen levels. Immersion of the skin in carbon dioxide enriched water has been shown to increase blood flow and oxygen delivery to the skin (Ref. Hartmann et. al., Angiology, vol. 48, pp. 337-43 (1997)). It should be noted that oxygen does not increase blood flow to the skin when administered topically because oxygen is not a vasodilator. The delivery of carbon dioxide to the skin via an emulsion vehicle would therefore be a desirable xe2x80x9canti-agingxe2x80x9d innovation.
Hair is an assembly of fibers that contain proteins, which may bind minerals by both ionic bonds and covalent bonds. In addition to undesirable changes in color and appearance, environmental minerals may have an adverse effect on chemical hair treatments. Mineral deposits in tap water may strip away highlights, darkening hair color to a brassier hue.
The phenomenon of blonde hair acquiring a green tint when exposed to swimming pool water containing copper has been attributed to copper mineral absorption by hair. Such absorption occurs when copper is in the form of a weak complex of copper salts. Subsequent shampooing with a conventional composition cannot strip the green color.
The green hair effect is associated with conditions which stress the hair, e.g. chlorine in a swimming pool, and the presence of dissolved copper salts. Thus, a hair conditioner, which simultaneously facilitates the removal of bound environmental minerals and conditions the hair, is a desirable consumer innovation.
Cationic polymers are used in shampoos and conditioners to enhance combability and to make the hair feel softer and smoother to the touch. Cationic surfactants are positively charged molecules that have an affinity for negatively charged sites on the hair. When used repeatedly, an excess of cationic polymer may buildup on the hair shaft, resulting in dull, lifeless hair. Compositions for the removal of minerals from human hair do not address the problem of cationic buildup on the hair shaft.
Liquid crystals have been described as the fourth state of matter and are found in cell membranes as well as diverse inanimate systems, such as xe2x80x9cgel-networkxe2x80x9d emulsions and digital thermometers. Sodium bicarbonate may be incorporated into a cationic emulsion vehicle containing lyotropic liquid crystals. Citric acid may also be incorporated into such an emulsion vehicle. The emulsion containing sodium bicarbonate will form sodium carbonate as it ages and will be alkaline. The liquid crystal dispersion containing citric acid will be strongly acidic. When these two emulsions are combined, xe2x80x9ccarbonic activationxe2x80x9d takes place with the introduction of a carbon dioxide gas phase into an association structure with the liquid crystal gel network.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,365,143 issued Apr. 3, 2002 to Hlavac and Lundmark and incorporated herein by reference discloses a cleansing composition and method for removing chemically bound residues and mineral deposits from hair. The inventive compositions include three ingredients: an aminoacetic acid (glycine), a member selected from the group consisting of a salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, a salt of hydroxyethylethylediaminetriacetic acid, and a salt of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, and mixtures thereof; and citric acid at a weakly alkaline pH. The resultant xe2x80x9ccitrified sodium glycinate edetatexe2x80x9d (CGSE) complex appears to be capable of penetrating into the peripheral region of the hair fiber where absorbed minerals, such as copper and iron, are primarily located. The weakly alkaline environment is advantageous to the promotion of cuticle swelling, thereby enhancing penetration of the chelating complex. When an anionic polysulfonate salt is included in cleansing compositions containing the CGSE complex, the removal of undesirable buildup such as cationic polymer and other cosmetic material on hair fiber surfaces is also facilitated.
An extension of the above technology involves the incorporation of citrified sodium glycinate edetate into a cationic gel-network liquid crystal emulsion vehicle containing sodium bicarbonate. When combined with a secondary vehicle containing a suitable acid (e.g. citric acid) or an acidic polymer (e.g. polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid or HSP-1180 available from the Henkel Corporation), carbonic activation takes place with carbon dioxide being liberated, causing the resultant composition to foam. When rinsed from the hair with water, bound minerals (e.g. copper and iron) are removed while the hair is simultaneously conditioned.
If the acidic, strongly anionic polymer HSP 1180 is used as an acidic activator for the bicarbonate/glycinate edetate emulsion complex, cationic buildup problems are often rectified without precipitate formation. This observation appears to be unique in that cationic and anionic substances are typically incompatible and often form gummy precipitates when combined.